The problem with this method is that the high manifold vacuum conditions at idle make it respond well to a lot of advance but until the mid ’70’s MG’s had no vacuum advance at idle. Simple in principle, but quite misleading results are obtained. The simplest form of this is to rotate the whole distributor with the engine running until the fastest idle is achieved. To time using the static method if you have electronic ignition, see further down this page. ![]() It is also a very good method of setting your timing if (after a bit of investigation using a strobe light – see later) you know what your static setting should be. However, static timing can still be a good approximate starting point if your distributor has been removed (for example in an engine rebuild) or you don’t have current access to a timing light (your son borrowed it!), as it should get the timing into the range where it will run reasonably well (unless the distributor advance is seized or totally flogged) and from there you can road test to where it feels best (keep noting what the changes are so they can be reversed if you need to). It costs less than even one bodged “professional” tune-up! For best results if you are planning to maintain your car in the long term a strobe will be essential. (see my page “Distributor advance rate adjustments: compensating for high mileage wear”) Because of this, it will be difficult to get your ignition set up properly using the static method unless you know more about how your distributor is performing. However, at the age most distributors are now at, they have worn and so can vary from the original spec by significant, even major, amounts. When the cars were new, static timing was quite satisfactory as the distributor would still have been performing as designed. There are 2 basic methods of setting timing – static (engine not running) and dynamic (engine running) (also known as stroboscopic). ![]() The following notes are intended to supplement the information on how to set ignition timing (by either method) which is found in most good workshop manuals, with particular reference to how to work with distributors which are worn and not performing to original specifications, as is frequently the case in older cars.
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